Raiatea in the South Pacific Society Islands is the poor sister to better-known and more-visited Bora Bora and Tahiti. Virtually undiscovered by tourists, this unspoiled French-owned Polynesian island, largest in the Leeward group of the Society archipelago, is a true hidden treasure. Known as the Sacred Island, it’s also the cultural, religious and historic heart of this group and had been the main stop-over point for early Polynesians who came from Hawaii.
From my room at Hawaiki Nui Hotel, I could see the silhouette of the glamourous Bora Bora.  I was not expecting much from my current location other than sunshine, warmth and mountainous vistas. Raiatea isn’t known for beaches but for the motus (small islands) and 500 species of fish and turtles, sharks and dolphins.
However, a day excursion yielded the unexpected.
After a less-than-inspiring first stop at pearl farm – this part of the world is the only area that produces precious black pearls – including an unexciting lecture on vanilla, another of the great industries of the Society Islands, we headed aboard our guide boat Via Poe (Water Pearl) to a small motu where we discovered local inhabitants singing, swimming and, in general, having a great time. This hidden islet was to be one of the highlights of my 10 days in the French Polynesian Islands.
The Gauguinesque women, with their tawny, taut skin, floral garlands and tiaras set perfectly on their heads, some bare topped, were certainly the inspiration for the post-impressionist artist since little seemed to have changed since the early 1900s when Gauguin came to live in this part of the world. I couldn’t help but observe how friendly they were as they happily greeted every new arrival with the traditional double-cheek kiss.  
We settled under a tree to keep out of the hot sun, watching the group.  Some of the men were drinking the locally brewed Hinana beer. Others were taking advantage of the warm, calm water.  Some did both at the same time.
Never having snorkelled before, I decided this would be the perfect time and place to start since this crowd didn’t seem to concern themselves with strangers and if I looked foolish, no one would notice.  
 Fins, snorkel and goggles in place, feeling like Donald Duck, I waddled to the shore only to be told by one of my travelling mates that the fins should really be put on in the water. As I flipped around in the shallows, I soon felt more courageous, realizing that I was doing quite well breathing through the tube with my head completely submerged. I ventured out further and was astonished at the plethora of indescribably beautiful and colourful marine life and the various shapes and textures of the coral.
Meanwhile a luncheon repast of pig and locally-grown vegetables had been cooking over coals and under a pile of leaves and heavy cloth for four hours, prepared by our tour guides for us and for the islanders. The meal also included such South Pacific treats as curried clams, Tahitian bread, taro, tapioca bread and poe with coconut milk and chicken with spinach and coconut milk.
Buffet tables were carefully laid out under an open-sided pandana-roofed structure. A trio, including our guide Oliver, who played a cool ukulele and sang, entertained.
After a short post-meal rest, Oliver had a mysterious announcement. It was time to "go around an island."  About 15 minutes later he dropped anchor and I realized we were expected to snorkel around this new motu destination.  Since this day was my snorkelling debut, Oliver gently guided me, showing me how to float and not to step or go too close to the coral. I discovered an underwater world that was filled with a panorama of even more fish and colourful coral than I had seen before. Soon I was floating on my own in this underwater haven.
At one point Oliver pointed out two huge and gross looking eels. Even my more experienced mates were intimidated but he explained that they may be ugly but were harmless.
After more than an hour, we had circled the small motu and the Via Poe was in view.  Now I knew why Raiatea’s 22,780 residents never consider moving to the larger, more popular islands and why they seem not to curry favour with tourism. This island is a hidden treasure, a lesser known area in this part of the world but an oasis for anyone who enjoys archeological sites, hedonism and water sports, not necessarily in that order.
Back in my over-the-water cabin, I couldn’t resist the urge to head for the deck and into the calm ocean just steps down. As I snorkelled, I felt a great sense of accomplishment and also knew that I had been most fortunate to experience this day-long excursion in the far corner of this very blue, perfect Polynesian world.
If you go: I flew from Los Angeles to Tahiti on Air Tahiti Nui and then to Raiatea on Air Tahiti. The trip from Los Angeles is approximately 8 1/2 hours.
Rooms at the Raiatea Hawaiki Nui  Hotel start at about $260.