Having a pint or two at the Pump House Pub, Brighton.

Duke of Clarence Pub, Hampton, Middlesex.

What British pubs have most in common is their diversity, often reflecting the character of their environment, such as the Pub restaurant in Teddington, Middlesex.

The Cockpit, London.

Visitors to Britain who may be concerned about the impact of a soaring British pound on the dining-out budget, can take solace in an inexpensive alternative: that ubiquitous British institution known as the neighbourhood pub.

The history of these venerable public houses dates back to Roman times when, as taverns, they offered overnight accommodation and entertainment to travellers. Distinctive, and often-pictorial, signs out front frequently date back to those days, their illustrations a way to notify travellers who were illiterate that here was shelter from robbers and other threats on the road.

Pubs still provide food, drink, and friendly conversation.

Some of London's are among the city's oldest and most historic buildings.

Before the 20th century, pubs had sections set aside for specific types of customers. Tradesmen drank in one area, while the gentry did their imbibing in the lounge, often behind an etched-glass "snob screen."

Traditionally male bastions, it was not until 1970 that a respectable woman could enter these government-licensed premises alone.

Many pubs take on the flavour of their particular neighbourhood and, while regulars meet there for lunch, the clientele may change by the hour, with afternoons perhaps drawing those for a game of darts or billiards, and the after-work crowd dropping by for a pint or two before heading home.

Traditionally, pub hours and etiquette have been strictly regulated. All such establishments had to close by 11 p.m. (10:30 on Sundays). The closing bell rang 10 minutes earlier as a sign that it was time to drink up.

However, in 2005, Parlia-ment authorized these establishments to stay open up to 24 hours. It was left to the individual publican to decide what his customers would prefer. While the majority still close at 11 p.m., many pubs will stay open later, especially on weekends.

There are a couple of unspoken rules in a pub. If a Brit next to you offers to buy you a pint, it's okay to accept, but you should then offer to pay for the next round. You can offer to buy the bartender a drink, but never tip any person working behind the bar.

For the fullest experience of pub life, stop in for lunch or for a drink at about 5:30 p.m.

During busy times, chances are you will have to stand, balancing your beer in one hand and food in the other. You may have to take a number and wait to be called to order your drink at the bar, or your food from the prescribed area. You pay when served.

If you want a quiet visit or a better chance of finding a seat, check in around 2 p.m.

As to drinks, don't just ask for "a beer." Many establishments have up to two dozen different varieties of ale.

For most Brits, the favorite libation is a bitter, a somewhat stronger form of ale served at room temperature. Chilling it would ruin the strong hops taste.

You might want to sample a shandy, which is a bitter and lemonade, or a ginger beer. Or try a stout, a strong, dark brew with foam.

If you want to drink what most people on the North American side of the Atlantic call beer, ask for a cold lager.

Your best bet is to tell the person behind the bar the type of beer you like: light, dark, heavy, heavy on the hops, or low alcohol, and let him or her make a suggestion. You may need to specify whether you want a pint or a half-pint.

And then there's pub food. And, yes, the phrase "Pub Grub" is legitimate.

This is not gourmet cuisine but generally the comfort food most Britons grow up with. That means meat pies such as steak-and-kidney and shepherds, a baked casserole of diced meat and vegetables with gravy, topped with mashed potatoes.

A plowman's lunch consists of a large chunk of cheddar or Stilton cheese, chutney, a pickle and a crusty hunk of bread.

Many items today are frozen, so they're popped into a microwave oven for heating. Daily specials in hot dishes may be listed on a chalkboard.

Sunday meals often include some type of roast accompanied by vegetables, potatoes, and the trimmings.

There are also wrapped sandwiches and hot and cold buffet items, lasagna, salads, and, in some cases, dessert.

Food has recently taken on a larger role in pubs with meals often available at tables or in a separate dining room.

For those wanting to sample a pub in the company of others, there are guided pub walks in London. Participants generally meet in the early evening near one of the Underground stations. London hotels or the British Tourist Authority should have brochures on such outings.

So, "cheers," until you hear that closing bell.

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RESOURCES:

For more information, go to visitbritain.ca; call 888--847-4885; or email britinfo@visitbritain.org.