The 18th hole at Glen Dornoch Waterway Golf Links is the new Myrtle Beach.
Standing at the back tee, which butts up against a lazy stretch of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, with its thick brush and marshland spilling onto the hole, you’re presented with three options: you can hit straight to a generous fairway leaving a long second shot into the deep green; you can carry the wide stretch of unplayable and unforgiving marshland to a second fairway to shave off yardage and leave yourself a short iron in; or you can tie your shoes tightly, wind up your hips and swing for the fences at the appealing green a little over 300 yards away.
The hole, just like Myrtle Beach, is all about choice.
The sunny, South Carolina hotspot has been a golf mecca for decades. And with over 100 courses in the 60-mile stretch between Pawleys Island and Southport, N.C., it’s easy to see why. But thanks to some concentrated development over the last 10 years, Golf Town U.S.A. has expanded to include fine dining, nightlife and entertainment for the golfer and non-golfer alike.
Unlike the tacky Myrtle Beach of old, the new Grand Strand officially has something for everyone.
Pulling out the airport in the warm South Carolina sun and heading south along Hwy 17, it’s easy to spot the huge commercial expansion along the route, aptly nicknamed Restaurant Row. More than 1,600 watering holes, five-star eateries, gin joints and hidden culinary gems dot both sides of the highway along much of the Grand Strand stretch.
But determining Myrtle Beach’s “best anything,” all depends on where you are hanging your hat.
The region once had a fairly centralized tourist hub that circled around the downtown. Now the Strand has options in the south, central and north, each with its own soul and flair.
Sweet South
The southern tip or lowlands starts (or ends) with Pawleys Island. One of the oldest summer resorts on the East Coast, the vibe is down home and laid back. Aged oak and magnolia trees drip with Spanish moss and the cottage-style accommodations ooze history.
Though home to a number of great golf courses including The Caledonia Golf and Fish Club and The Heritage Club, one of the more “royal” tracks there is a must-play. True Blue opened in 1998 but has undergone a series of makeovers since the ribbon was cut. The Mike Strantz-design seems to be finally at peace and offers a wicked challenge with plenty of bite – especially on the three great closing holes.
It’s also one of the 75-plus courses in the stable of the non-profit trade association Myrtle Beach Golf Holiday. The company represents the courses, five golf schools and 107 golf package providers and has helped tourists find golf, hotels and entertainment.
With 15 million annual visitors, it seems things are working.
A culinary must while in the southern tip is a little-known eatery called Frank’s Outback. The bar in front probably grabs most people as they walk in, but stick to the path and listen for the shallow echo of jazz coming from the piano player in the rear. Frank’s Outback is all about ambiance and atmosphere – and tents. The restaurant consists of a series of adjoining white tents under which diners can enjoy a great meal in the great outdoors, a perfect après-golf choice.
Centre Spread
The central part of Myrtle Beach had been the traditional tourist destination for decades and subsequently has the largest collection of entertainment and dining options.
For those seeking accommodations, the new Marina Inn at The Grande Dunes is one of the latest editions to the seaside and is just a pitch and putt away from the coast.
The resort sits between the Atlantic and the Intracoastal Waterway on 2,220 acres. It’s complete with 36 holes, a golf academy headed by Golf Magazine Top 100 teacher, Brad Redding and a glut of million-dollar homes that represent much of the recent investment here.
The most concentrated collection of entertainment is the nearby 350-acre Broadway at the Beach. Located near the heart of the city, the $250-million development is home to 20 restaurants, 15 attractions, 11 nightclubs, three hotels and more than 100 specialty shops offering everything from rocking chairs to gummy bears. Everything is set around a 23-acre lake and the strip of clubs starts hopping once the sun goes down.
For those interested in a show, Dolly Parton’s Dixie Stampede is a hop, skip and jump across the highway from the Marina Inn.
Northern Comfort
Heading up Hwy 17, visitors will feel a different type of energy closer to the North Carolina border. Things are a little more spread out as the golf courses drift further inland and the pace of life lessens ever so slightly.
The north has a huge variety of golf to choose from – over 30 courses at last count – and could be a golf destination unto itself. But, the shopping is extensive at Barefoot Landing and a must-eat hotspot there is the Greg Norman Australian Grille that sits at the water’s edge and has style to spare.
Tourists choosing the northern end of the Grand Strand can play all four of the Big Cat courses, the perennial visitor favourite Oyster Bay and Glen Dornoch Waterway Golf Links, where I found myself on the 18th green thinking about the bad choices I had made to get there from the tee.
A cold beer chilled my hacker’s ire in the clubhouse bar after the round. I stood staring out the window past empty rocking chairs on the back patio and the double green where 9 and 18 meet.
A huge gambling boat churned down the Intracoastal Waterway just metres beyond the green. Though the scene was somewhat surreal, it’s just something you come to expect in Myrtle Beach – because if you tire of the dozens of golf courses, shopping centres, historical tours and quaint southern bistros serving clam chowder, you can always go on a boat ride.
